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Removing ceramic tiles can be a hard job, especially if they have been there for a long time. The job is a bit easier if the tiles are adhered to a cement board. Originally, some years back, tiles were set into the cement and when they set the cement and the tile were one unit. Then came this board which is a layer of cement applied to a wood board and the tiles were laid on this.

The tools you will need to remove the ceramic tile are as follows: a 3 inch putty knife with a stiff blade; a small hammer, a flat garden spade and an iron pry bar. For your safety, you should wear wrap around safety glasses to avoid getting flying particles in your eyes; medium to heavy leather gloves to save your hands from scrapes and cuts; and a shirt with long sleeve or a sweatshirt.

We will assume that your tile is adhered to a board attached with cement and proceed from there. Do not try to remove the tiles from the board with the intention of saving it. It would be very hard to do this successfully and cement board is fairly inexpensive so the cement board should be removed with the tile. Do not start the removal from the center of the ceramic tile. Find an area where the tile and a different material meet.

To remove the cement board and the tile together you will first have to remove some of the tile and the board separately. Take edge of the putty knife and set it into the grout surrounding the tile and remove that grout. When the grout is removed try to pop the tile off. You can use the putty knife by placing it under the tile and striking it. The tile will either break or come off. Remove a few more tiles that way. At this point the cement board should be obvious. Strike it with the hammer until it is broken and remove it. Continue this way until all of the tile and cement board has been removed.
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As we all know it is becoming more and more important to start to try to reduce our reliance on traditional fossil fuels, both in the home and in our cars. In future we are going to use an increasing number or rechargeable batteries
. However over time these cells reduce in efficiency and they are very expensive to replace. Fortunately it is possible to recondition old batteries, and restore their performance thus avoiding expensive replacements.

For this reason it is important to learn the skill of restoring these batteries to their new condition. Not just to save money, but you could even turn these skills into a profitable business. This is a service people need now, but are going to need more and more in the future.

This is nothing to do with recharging the battery, by reconditioning we mean restoring that battery to its original capacity to hold charge, and making it like new again. Almost any rechargeable battery can be worked on. Including lap top batteries, car batteries, and cellphone batteries, to name a few.

The methods you need to use will largely depend on the type of battery you have. Some will require equipment, most of which you can make yourself. Or if you do need to purchase equipment it will pay for itself in a very short period of time. It is however very important that you get some specialist information, and follow safety guidelines, as batteries can contain hazardous chemicals.

Car batteries are one of the best types to recondition, as old ones can be acquired for free, and with their ability to hold charge for a long period of time they are ideal for use as storage in a home energy system, or car conversions to electrical power.

If you learn to recondition old batteries, not only can you potentially make some money, but you will be helping to save the environment at the same time.
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

Lead poisoning is a real threat that can have adverse health effects for the youngsters as well as adults. Some of the possible symptoms of lead poisoning include constipation, headache, decreased IQ, kidney damage, behavioral problems, aggressive behavior and anemia, as well as several others. Whether you’re painting your home’s exterior or the interior, using a lead-free paint is the best way to go.

How important is lead awareness? So important that the EPA now requires contractors and painters who renovate or paint homes, child care facilities
and schools built after 1978 and when the work will require the disturbance of more than six square feet of paint to be lead-safe certified with the EPA.

It doesn’t matter what type of home you have or where you’re located. Apartments, single family homes, townhouses, public housing, etc. It doesn’t matter, lead poisoning is still possible due to lead-based paint. Whether you’re in the city, suburbs or country, lead-based paint may still pose problems. The risk is higher for those with homes built before 1978, which is the reason for the new regulations mentioned above.

So how do you know if the paint the contractors are using is lead-based? Ask. Tell the contractor that you want lead-free paint and anything else is unacceptable. If you’re purchasing the paint yourself, read the label. Look for paints that have low VOCs or no VOCs. VOC stands for volatile organic compound and is the source for many of the toxins released by your paint even years after its application. Just because the smell of fresh paint has vanished doesn’t mean the paint isn’t still releasing toxins.

The problems associated with lead paint are such that it is important to take a few minutes to discuss it with your contractor. Ask about the paint they’ll use and its VOC content. Low- or no-VOC paint does not sacrifice quality for safety and is well worth it, especially if you have children in the home whose safety you have in mind. Make sure the company you hire is lead-safe certified with the EPA even if your home was built after 1978.
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

heating and cooling your home uses more energy and drains more energy dollars than any other system in your home. Typically, 43% of your utility bill goes for heating and cooling. What’s more, heating and cooling systems in the United States together emit 150 million tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere each year, adding to global climate change.

They also generate about 12% of the nation’s sulfur dioxide and 4% of the nitrogen oxides, the chief ingredients in acid rain. No matter what kind of heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning system you have in your house, you can save money and increase your comfort by properly maintaining and upgrading your equipment. But remember, an energy-efficient furnace alone will not have as great an impact on your energy bills as using the whole-house approach.

By combining proper equipment maintenance and upgrades with appropriate insulation, air sealing, and thermostat settings, you can cut your energy use for heating and cooling, and reduce environmental emissions, from 20% to 50%.

Heating and Cooling Tips

• Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable in the winter and as high as is comfortable in the summer.
• Clean or replace filters on furnaces once a month or as needed.
• Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they’re not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
• Bleed trapped air from hot-water radiators once or twice a season; if in doubt about how to perform this task, call a professional.
• Place heat-resistant radiator reflectors between exterior walls and the radiators.
• Turn off kitchen, bath, and other exhaust fans within 20 minutes after you are done cooking or bathing; when replacing exhaust fans, consider installing high-efficiency, low-noise models.
• During the heating season, keep the draperies and shades on your southfacing windows open during the day to allow the sunlight to enter your home and closed at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows.
• During the cooling season, keep the window coverings closed during the day to prevent solar gain.

Long-Term Savings Tips

• Select energy-efficient products when you buy new heating and cooling equipment. Your contractor should be able to give you energy fact sheets for different types, models, and designs to help you.

Household Heating Systems

Although several different types of fuels are available to heat our homes, more than half of us use natural gas.

compare energy usage.

For furnaces, look for high Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings. The national minimum is 78% AFUE, but there are ENERGY STAR models on the market that exceed 90% AFUE.

• For air conditioners, look for a high Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The current minimum is 13 SEER for central air conditioners.

ENERGY STAR models are 14 SEER or more. Air Ducts One of the most important systems in your home, though it’s hidden beneath your feet and over your head, may be wasting a lot of your energy dollars.

Your home’s duct system, a branching network of tubes in the walls, floors, and ceilings, carries the air from your home’s furnace and central air conditioner to each room. Ducts are made of sheet metal,fiberglass , or other materials.

Unfortunately, many duct systems are poorly insulated or not insulated properly. Ducts that leak heated air into unheated spaces can add hundreds of dollars a year to your heating and cooling bills. Insulating ducts that are in unconditioned spaces is usually very cost effective. If you are buying a new duct system, consider one that comes with insulation already installed.

Sealing your ducts to prevent leaks is even more important if the ducts are located in an unconditioned area such as an attic or vented crawl space. If the supply ducts are leaking, heated or cooled air can be forced out of unsealed joints and lost. In addition, unconditioned air can be drawn into return ducts through unsealed joints.

In the summer, hot attic air can be drawn in, increasing the load on the air conditioner. In the winter, your furnace will have to work longer to keep your house comfortable. Either way, your energy losses cost you money.

Although minor duct repairs are easy to make, ducts in unconditioned spaces should be sealed and insulated by qualified professionals using appropriate sealing materials. Here are a few simple tips to help with minor duct repairs.

Duct Tips

• Check your ducts for air leaks. First, look for sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for obvious holes.
• If you use tape to seal your ducts, avoid cloth-backed, rubber adhesive duct tape, which tends to fail quickly. Researchers recommend other products to seal ducts: mastic, butyl tape, foil tape, or other heatapproved tapes. Look for tape with the Underwriters Laboratories logo.

• Remember that insulating ducts in the basement will make the basement colder. If both the ducts and the basement walls are uninsulated, consider insulating both.Water pipes and drains in unconditioned spaces could freeze and burst in the space if the heat ducts are fully insulated, because there would be no heat source to prevent the space from freezing in cold weather. However, using an electric heating tape wrap on the pipes can prevent this. Check with a professional contractor.

• If your basement has been converted to a living area, hire a professional to install both supply and return registers in the basement rooms.

• Be sure a well-sealed vapor barrier exists on the outside of the insulation on cooling ducts to prevent moisture buildup.

• When doing ductwork, be sure to get professional help. Changes andrepairs to a duct system should always be performed by a qualified professional.

• Ducts that don’t work properly can create serious, life-threatening carbon monoxide (CO) problems in the home. Install a CO monitor to alert you to harmful CO levels if you have a fuel-burning furnace, stove or other appliance, or an attached garage.
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

Imagine what it would be like to not have an electric bill every month, to be able to produce your own energy for your home or office. Magniwork is a digital ebook guide that shows you how to create a free energy generation system yourself. You can build a small magnetic generator in a couple of hours by following the plans in the electric generator system. Almost anyone can do it, even if you have no experience.

In this guide you’ll find:

* An eco-friendly solution which doesn’t produce by-products
* An easy-to-follow guide to how to construct the generator
* Exactly what you need to put it together
* A cool weekend project to work on that will save you money
* A way to create energy by itself without solar energy, heat, water, coal or and kind of fuel
* A source to power your household

And Much, Much More!

I followed the plans, and was able to save 50% on my power bill. The unit I constructed cost me about $120 for parts and it can actually power half of my house. I am debating whether to build another generator, or make the one I have more powerful, so I will not have to use the electric company at all. The money I put out for parts will be recovered in no time.

The tools and parts needed to build the magnetic generator are common items. You probably have the tools already, a hammer, screwdriver and things like that. Your local hardware store will carry the materials for the generator itself.

Most alternative energy sources are dependent on the weather. Rain, clouds, or a still day can upset systems that rely on sun or wind. You will need a back up system for times they do not work. Magnetic generators does not require an outside source, and they are much cheaper to build! You should be able to have a system that will run your entire house, with no back up needed. Wind and solar systems can be quite costly to get up and running.

The Magniwork energy generator was easy to build, has drastically reduced my electric bill, and is environmentally friendly. If you are trying to save money and the earth, look into building your own magnetic generator.
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

An individual solar panel is made of many solar cells. The cells are electrically connected to provide a particular value of current and voltage. The individual cells are properly encapsulated to provide isolation and protection from humidity and corrosion. There are different types of modules available on the market, depending on the power demands of your application. The most common modules are

composed of 32 or 36 solar cells of crystalline silicon.

These cells are all of equal size, wired in series, and encapsulated between glass and plastic material, using a polymer resin (EVA) as a thermal insulator. The surface area of the module is typically between 0.1 and 0.5 m2. Solar panels usually have two electrical contacts, one positive and one negative.

Some panels also include extra contacts to allow the installation of bypass diodes across individual cells. Bypass diodes protect the panel against a phenomenon known as “hot-spots”. A hot-spot occurs when some of the cells are in shadow while the rest of the panel is in full sun. Rather than producing energy, shaded cells behave as a load that dissipates energy.

In this situation, shaded cells can see a significant increase in temperature (about 85 to 100ºC.) Bypass diodes will prevent hot-spots on shaded cells, but reduce the maximum voltage of the panel. They should only be used when shading is unavoidable. It is a much better solution to expose the entire panel to full sun whenever possible. The electrical performance of a solar module its represented by the IV characteristic curve, which represents the current that is provided based on the voltage generated for a certain solar radiation. The curve represents all the possible values of voltage-current.

The curves depend on two main factors: the temperature and the solar radiation received by the cells. For a given solar cell area, the current generated is directly proportional to solar irradiance (G), while the voltage reduces slightly with an increase of temperature. A good regulator will try to maximize the amount of energy that a panel provides by tracking the point that provides maximum power (V x I). The maximum power corresponds to the knee of the IV curve.

How to choose a good panel?

One obvious metric to use when shopping for solar panels is to compare the ratio of the nominal peak power (Wp) to the price. This will give you a rough idea of the cost per Watt for different panels. But there are a number of other considerations to keep in mind as well.

If you are going to install solar panels in geographical areas where soiling (from dust, sand, or grit) will likely be a problem, consider purchasing panels with a low affinity for soil retention. These panels are made of materials that increase the likelihood that the panel will be automatically cleaned by wind and rain.

Always check the mechanical construction of each panel. Verify that the glass is hardened and the aluminum frame is robust and well built. The solar cells inside the panel can last for more than 20 years, but they are very fragile and the panel must protect them from mechanical hazards. Look for the manufacturer’s quality guarantee in terms of expected power output and mechanical construction.

Finally, be sure that the manufacturer provides not only the nominal peak power of the panel (Wp) but also the variation of the power with irradiation and temperature. This is particularly important when panels are used in arrays, as variations in the operating parameters can have a big impact on the quality of power generated and the useful lifetime of the panels.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

Ok first up let’s take a look at how to go about disconnecting a washing machine

1. Like with any plumbing maintenance, the water supply will need to be disconnected before starting. This is just a precautionary measure to prevent water leakage if an error is encountered, and potential further plumbing problems.

2. Disconnect the washing machine from the power source, as electricity and water don’t mix after all!

3. Manoeuvre the washing machine forward and take a look at the connections at the back, locating the discharge pipe which carries the dirty water during a washing cycle. The pipe itself is attached to an open top plastic pipe which is attached to the wall behind the machine leading to the drain. Before disconnecting the pipe, make sure you have a bucket ready to catch any dirty water which may have been left within the pipe.

4. Next up is the disconnection of the water supply pipes (a cold and sometimes a hot inlet pipe is featured). At the end of these pipes you should find a set of small taps on the connectors which will need to be turned off.

5. The inlet pipes are connected with standard plastic nuts which can be easily gripped with the ridges that have been set within the design. Once the pipe has been disconnected be prepared with the bucket again just in case water flows out.

6. Once these have all been disconnected you are ready to pull the machine out completely, and move on to the exciting part of setting up the new machine.

Disconnecting that old, broken washing machine and connecting a nice new replacement machine can sometimes be a stressful scenario in which you really don’t want to participate, but before you jump to the phone and contact London Plumbers, take a look at this handy step by step guide on how you can fit this yourself!
Now let’s take a look at how to connect the new washing machine

1. Now that the washing machine has been delivered you will need to remove the bolts from the rear of the machine, as these are only used to secure the drum whilst the machine is being transported.

2. The same as with disconnecting the old machine ensure that the water supply is still turned off.

3. Place the waste pipe into the top of the existing drain pipe which will be fixed to the wall. There should be an open top on the drainage pipe to allow air to flow through the pipe to ain the flow of the water after it has been pumped from the washing machine.

4. Connect the supply water pipe (or pipes, some models will have a hot water inlet and the pipes are coloured coded red and blue for easy identification) and tighten the nuts to ensure the pipes are securely in place.

5. Now it’s time to turn the water supply and inlet taps at the mains pipe back on, and check for any leaks.

6. Connect the washing machine in to the mains power, and switch it on for a test rinse. During the test check the plumbing for any leaks to ensure that everything has been securely connected.

7. Push the washing machine back in place once the test rinse has completed and let the fun begin!

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

Magnetic field generators have created a lot of interest. Several people are turning towards this new-age source of electricity due to the many benefits that it offers. A magnetic field generator produces energy using magnets. The core of the magnetic generator has a perpetual spin motion that is utilized in production of electricity.

A magnetic field generator is capable of powering several household items such as television, refrigerator, computer, lamps and many more. The generator
can help you cut down your electricity bill by 50% to 100% depending on the size of your home and that of the generator. In fact, a large generator can create surplus energy that you can sell to earn some extra income.

Magnetic field generators do not incur any maintenance cost. They can work well for 400 years and since they are usually installed indoors, they are not affected adversely by natural elements, such as, rain, humidity and sunlight. The small device can be placed in your garage, basement or even under the sink.

Magnetic field generators do not emit harmful gases or any other type of toxic waste. Thus, they are safe for the environment as well as your family. The best part about magnetic field generators is that they do not depend on any external source for power. Thus, unlike wind turbines and solar panels, they function properly irrespective of the climatic conditions.

Ready to use magnetic generators are not available in the market, so you have to build one for yourself. Contrary to popular perception, it is not difficult to build your own magnetic field generator, if you have all the materials and a good DIY guide. The required materials can easily be found in your home or a local hardware shop for less than $200. Get a magnetic field generator for your home today and reap the benefits for lifetime. A magnetic field generator will reduce your carbon footprint as well as your electricity bill.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

Let’s face it, many of us long for that ageless, rustic Tuscan look for our exterior spaces – soft earthy colors, weather aged cast iron or stone furniture, large weather worn stone planters or urns, and a grape vine growing over rustic looking wooden archway .

Unfortunately of course it’s not really possible to re-create an enchanting Tuscan look where weather conditions are vastly dissimilar and buildings are constructed in vastly different styles and with different building materials. But nevertheless, with a bit of effort and the the right choice of materials, it’s feasible to produce at least a semblance of a Tuscan ambiance within your courtyard or patio.

The best place to start is with the walls. Ideally walls should be given a rough rendered finish to give a slightly rough texture and either an ochre colour is added to the render or can be painted on afterward . Take a to get an idea of suitable colours.

Next you need to consider what to lay on the ground . To avoid back breaking work and cost of digging up existing concrete and re-laying with natural stone slabs, a much more simple and convenient solution is to use interlocking deck tiles. These tiles can merely be laid directly over the top of the existing hard surface . They don’t use any adhesives in view of the fact that each tile is locked to the neighboring tile with inbuilt connecting tabs. These days, it’s possible to purchase interlocking deck tiles in a variety of surface materials, but for a Tuscan look, your best choice would generally be natural sandstone interlocking tiles .

After you have installed the tiles or pavers , then you can start on the accessories . Try to find some large planters or urns. Rather than going to the expense of purchasing natural stone products, you can buy rather good reproductions crafted from cast cement which are treated to give an vintage appearance. Be aware that just a few large and appealingly designed planters or urns will always look better than a larger collection of smaller objects.

Next you need to consider the furniture. Preferably you should select rustic cast-iron furniture or if expense is no object , you could select a stone bench or two, a couple of stone seats or even a stone table.

To finish, you need to select appropriate plants to use in your urns or planters and around the area you have just fashioned. You really want to be using plants which have a Mediterranean feel and not bright, showy plants. Generally speaking, the most suitable plants those with greyish or brown strap like leaves. If you have the space, you could also incorporate a pergola structure and train a vine to creep up and over the pergola. Otherwise you could attach panels of lattice to one of the walls and train a suitably selected vine to grow over the lattice.

Of course it will be impossible to achieve the total effect overnight, but then Rome was not built in a day either. But with a bit of patience and good planning, you can have your own special corner of Tuscany, right in your backyard.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

If you’re thinking about building a backyard shed from a plan, there are a minimum of six criteria you will want to insure your plan has before your purchase it. Unless you’re a skilled carpenter, you’ll need all six of these to insure you have a pleasurable and successful shed-building experience.

1. A drawing or photograph of the finished product

It always helps to have an image of the end goal of any endeavor. This is also true of building your own shed. Good shed plans will come with an artist’s rendering of the shed, perhaps with landscaping and potential uses shown as well. There may even be photographs of actual sheds built from the plans, with alternative outer style enhancements shown. In any case, you will want to have an image of what your shed will look like when it is finished so that you can determine if this plan is right for you.

2. A detailed blueprint

Most all shed plans come with what is known as a blueprint. The term blueprint comes from many years ago when drawings were produced using duplicating equipment that caused the paper and drawings to be blue in color. Today, most prints are digital and are meant to be printed on white paper. In any case, you want the shed building drawings to be detailed so that there are no questions how pieces are meant to go together. A good way to determine whether your blueprints are detailed enough is to look at the style accent pieces or the roof framing. Usually these two components have complex angles that require extra detail in order to be able to make the pieces successfully. If you don’t see sufficient detail for your skill level to be able to replicate the pieces in question, you should probably pass on those particular plans.

3. A complete material list

A detailed and complete materials list will have everything you will need to build your shed. Usually there will be a little more than is actually used in the shed, just in case of mistakes. A good materials list (also known as bill of materials) will list every piece of lumber, fastener, shingle, and miscellaneous component needed and include the quantity, grade, and size required. With a complete material list, you can take it to your building supply store and just hand it over to them and leave with everything you need.

4. List of tools required

A list of tools required to build the shed is a necessary component of a good shed building plan. If you see equipment on the list that you don’t own, you will have to take into account whether you will buy the necessary tool, rent it, or borrow it. Also, if for your skill level you see tools required that you have not used, you may want to consider whether this particular shed plan may be “over your head” and one you should pass on.

5. Foundation specifications

While shed plans don’t normally detail how to build a foundation, really good plans will go into some detail on the options you have available to you for acceptable foundations for your shed plan. You can then weigh the options against the functionality of your shed to determine whether you should go with a permanent option (such as a concrete floor) or a semi-permanent one (like a skid foundation).

6. Step by step instructions

Good shed plans will contain step by step instructions that will walk you through every phase of the shed building project in order. This is helpful in that the plan designer can alert you to some tricky areas or specific areas to pay attention to for safety or structural reasons. Make sure the wording makes sense to you and that you can understand the jargon. Sometimes plans are written by skilled carpenters and their own terminology can come across as a completely different language. If you can get a clear picture of what you need to do at each step, then the plan you are considering is indeed a good one.

There are a myriad of sources for shed building plans. Your local building supply store will more than likely have some, as well as books and web sites on the Internet. If you’re buying from the Internet, make sure you get a money-back guarantee before you buy. That way, after you have had a chance to analyze the plans against these six criteria, you can return them if they don’t stack up.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com